Roxanne Lowit

For over three decades, the unique lens of Roxanne Lowit has captured the faces, personalities, and spaces of modern culture. To review her incomparable work is to step behind the proverbial velvet rope. To see her images is to witness the creation and the celebration of fashion and art and theater and film, pleasure and joy and aesthetic delight. Lowit has photographed thousands of luminaries, including Andy Warhol, Salvador Dali, Kate Moss, Yves Saint-Laurent, Johnny Depp, Madonna, and George Clooney. Lowit has always done things differently. A native New Yorker, she was originally a textile designer. But she found her true calling crafting imagery of a different kind, and then created an entirely new genre of photography by taking her Instamatic where nobody else wanted to go: backstage at fashion shows. While everyone else was fixated on the runway, she captured the real action was where the rest of the photographers weren’t looking. Her epiphany typifies her keen eye for new possibilities—and it transformed fashion photography forever. But she has gone even further, elevating her medium into fine art. Lowit’s work has been exhibited in many of the world’s major museums, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art; the Whitney Museum of American Art; the Victoria & Albert Museum; the Warhol Museum; and the Museum of Modern Art in Moscow. Her photographs are part of the permanent collection of Japan’s prestigious Kobe Fashion Museum. She has also been featured in one-woman shows in New York, Paris, Berlin, Amsterdam, and London, as well as at group exhibitions at the Gagosian Gallery, Colette, and Art Basel Miami.

Pages in sketchbook 

For my secondary research I decided to bring my attention to a photographer known as "Roxanne Lowit" a fashion photographer that is well known for photographing the behind scenes of the fashion world and is from the time (nineties). I like her work as I feel she portrays fashion in a unusual and mysterious way as she is allowed back where no other photographer has been before and the way she documents the models is quite inspiring because she captures the models being themselves and having a good time instead of overly staging the photographs and showing the fun side of fashion. Its not all serious, she just have to look closer and go beyond the boundaries of what you aren't allowed to do. I also like how she has used specific lighting techniques to create a portrait for instance the image shown on my sketchbook of the model wearing red lipstick smoking shows the butterfly lighting beautifully. From evaluation her work I feel that Lowit uses a ring flash as the image is perfectly lit on the subject creating a dark background. From looking at her work has made me want to recap on specific lighting techniques used when taking portraits. 

Samples

When seeing this design printed onto a bigger
scale I felt that the text was to smart looking
to be on my cover as it is not the look I am
going for. The whole idea when I create a
magazine cover is to represent the nineties
style grunge, and I felt that this "times
Roman" text contrast with the style as the text
type itself is used for more serious publicity
such as "The Times News paper" and
many others.

Here are a variety of sample magazine covers I have created inspired by a wide selection of my research, when narrowing down my idea to only the nineties era then brought my attention to well known nineties grunge like magazines, such as Dazed, Another, ID and Wonderland. When designing my covers I have taken elements within my chosen focus of todays edgy and grunge like magazines into my work.  Further more to narrow my choices down for my final pieces I based it on which I thought were the strongest images but to find this out I decided the print them out onto a bigger scale enabling to see them up close rather than on a computer screen.  I did this by printing the outcomes as a PDF file and onto SRA3 paper, a type of paper that has a glossy finish when printed, so that before printing off properly at reprographics printing room I am able to view if any adjustments are needed.

After designing and editing this magazine cover on Photoshop I then printed it onto SRA3 paper (glossy paper) to get an idea of what my outcome would look like when printed onto photographic paper. However, when printing the finished piece I noticed a big difference from looking at the final design on the mac computer to then printing it. The design and image was more under exposed than in looked when printed, so to over come this problem I went back to my design on Photoshop and added more brightness and contrast to pull out the image further. After these adjustments I then re-printed the design and noticed a greater contrast between the two. I believe that seeing my outcomes on a bigger scale and up and close, was better than just seeing them on a screen as I was able to notice the quality difference and seen on bigger scale. 

These images I have not gone further with as I believe the lighting is perfect and the juxtaposition contrasts a lot within these designs and choice of both photo, and layout. I am overall satisfied with these specific outcomes. However, I feel that there are little arrangements that could be tweaked to make them better for instance, text blending into the background, wording arrangement not being in line with one another and a few theoretical issues all noted on my first development sheet. 

My first development sheet.

When printing this design out the exposure was totally different
when looking at the image on a mac screen, as well as when printed
to a larger format the arrangement of the wording looked slightly odd.
The word "Eve" I feel seems like It is floating rather than purposely
placed in the place where it laid. If I was too go back and edit this chosen
image again, I would crop it slightly so that there is less open space within the image.
I believe that by cropping the photograph so that the upper left is brought in, 
would allow more balance creating leading lines.

This in particular style of design was influenced by the magazine cover
"Another" of Dakota Johnson positioned laid on the floor with a white exposed background.
I recreated this by having my model positioned on the floor but instead of fully laid, 
I instructed her to have her hand of her hand creating an image portraying a grunge mood look.
I have also applied similar elements of the layout and used a colour scheme to balance
 the photograph out that juxtaposes the image. Different parts of the photo command your attention equally, 
so that perfect balance is achieved. For, instance the black title and the models top, create a perfect
balance as the white back ground contrast with the pair. If the photograph was improperly balanced  it would be  less appealing to look at and could  instantly turn off a viewer.

This is by far one of my favourite magazine covers
that I have designed as I believe like it says on the magazine, it is "Pure Grunge" portrayed within this image. I love how I have added the modern twist on nineties grunge and shown how it is seen as a fashion trend today. The items such as the flannel shirt and the scrunchy were influenced from my earlier research when exploring the trends that have returned in today's society. As well as in corporate the music influence of it all and adding in a modernised "Metallica" band T-shirt from Topshop creating more of a original grunge style. However, I believe that in today's day and age, band t-shirts are extremely popular but in my eyes for all the wrong reasons. Individuals of today wear them because they are seen as trendy, not for the main purpose of liking the band on the actual t-shirt today they are seen as a fashion accessory.   

Photoshoot 2

For my second photo shoot, specifically to create more outcomes that could possibly become my final pieces, I planned another photo shoot that would this time embrace the culture of grunge and how it has come about. As well as resulting in embracing trends from the nineties that have been modernised to fit in with today's society. I also intended to incorporate aspects of my research within my shoot, such as Corinne days edgy photography and the unusual ways on positioning the model, so that the attitude and body language of the model fits in with the look I am going for. As well as linking back to the overly exposed photographs of the Marc jacobs grunge collection directing the focus all on both the clothing and the model. The clothing I selected for this shoot is mainly loose clothing and band t-shirts. I chose this style so that it linked within both my research and style. Clothing such as flannel shirts, ripped jeans, denim jackets and dungarees. I also decided on my model having a natural look so I included messy hair and minimal make up, to really create the grunge theme and don't care attitude.  

From my research of magazines that show similarities within the edgy and quirky style of grunge (Dazed, Another, ID and Wonderland), I plan to used aspects such as the poses. Creating unusual and disturbing poses portraying the style and imagery portrayed through the magazines. I intend to recreate similar layouts of these specific magazines through my certain aspects for instance where things are placed within the magazine such as the bar code, wording, subtitle and title.

This time for my photo shoot I chose not to collaborate with any one to ensure myself that I am not relying on anyone but myself throughout my shoot. I planned to locate my shoot within the college grounds specifically where I was located for my last shoot,so that I am able to develop my skills further using ambient light and equipment such as light meters, reflectors and different lens. However, during my shoot we more location various times so that I was able to develop my skills with lighting e.g: camera settings.

Luckily, all of my photo shoot this time went to plan and I was able to have a successful shoot. However, I did have some difficulties with the lighting arrangement and settings within the camera but I was able to over come this and use the light meter efficiently enabling me to select the right settings. Also before starting my photo shoot bare in mind I had hired all my equipment out the day before and when collecting the essentials, they were no where to be such luckily I had traced there where a bouts to another department within college and I was able to gather what I needed to begin my photoshoot.   

Equipment list:

• Camera-Cannon 750D/ Reason I used this camera is because its my own camera and I am comfortable with using it, aswell as having a greater knowledge and understanding about it. 
• Lens-Macro lens/ Reason I used a macro lens was because I am forever using my regular day to day 55mm lens and felt I needed more experience with different lens, also the lens itself is great for close ups creating a good outcome of portraits. 
• Light meter/ Reason I used a light meter was because whenever I do location shoots I usually go off my own knowledge of what I already know when it comes to adjsusting the settings when changing light. The light meter gave me a chance to use a ddifferent material when photographing and advising me on what light should be used when shooting in either light or dark surroundings. 
• Ambient light/ I used ambient light coming directly from the open window from the right.
• Reflector-silver and gold/ I used a reflector to give me more practice when using different materials and learning multiple ways of playing with light.

Here are all my contact sheets containing all photographs taken on the day of the photo shoot showing experimentation and development.

Photoshoot 1

For my first photoshoot specifically for my final outcomes, I had planned for my shoot to be a nineties themed shoot portraying the returning trend "denim" and how it is seen and worn today, as well as linking back to my earlier research looking at programs. In particular, the TV program friends! When thinking about it, I thought what way could I interpret a program within my photo shoot. So I came to a decision that I was going to incorporate similar styles of scenery within my  location choice. The thought process was to be located at the local water fountains in Barnsley town center recreating the opening scene of the popular nineties program "Friends". I had also arranged a collaboration with a make up artist which so happened  was a coincidence that she was from the same college and was located at the hair and beauty Level floor so that when it came to having my model having her make up done she wouldn't be having to travel far. To find a look specific look for the make up I simply research "nineties grunge make-up" using Pinterest as I wanted my final images to also incorporate nineties grunge as I loved how the "Marc jacobs: Grunge collection" exposed the grunge style and left people shocked. I had no trouble in choosing my model as I use her for literally anything I can as I believe she is naturally beautiful and is more than comfortable in front of the camera.  

Unfortunately, my photo shoot didn't go as planned due to multiple circumstances that landed on the day such as, the weather conditions throughout the day were not suitable for my location choice. Another reason being that my arranged make up artist that I had organised did not get back in contact with me neither did she show up, so I was left with no make up artist. A part of the outfit was not brought on the day which wasn't a major problem but it would have been more suitable for what I was going for, looks-wise. 

However, this did not stop me one little bit from making my outcomes. I simply went along with what I had that was on offer, and had to improvise, which I didn't mind as it's what photographers do in their day to day jobs and it was a learning curve for myself. I over came these obstacles by relocating my shoot to inside location within the college surroundings but avoiding the photography studio as I feel that because I have over used the facility and feel too comfortable within the space. I felt it was time to start pushing some boundaries, and a chance to start experimenting. Since my make up artist didn't show I feel that it was a happy accident in a way as I believe having a natural face creates more of a grunge style as grunge was about not caring and feeling comfortable with how you look. Luckily towards the end of the shoot the weather pick up a little so I was able to locate the shoot outside and was able to produce a variety of outcomes in different locations. 

 Equipment List:

• Camera-Canon 750D/ Reason I used this camera is because its my own camera and I am comfortable with using it, aswell as having a greater knowledge and understanding about it. 
• Lens-Macro lens/ Reason I used a macro lens was because I am forever using my regular day to day 55mm lens and felt I needed more experience with different lens, also the lens itself is great for close ups creating a good outcome of portraits. 
• Light meter/ Reason I used a light meter was because whenever I do location shoots I usually go off my own knowledge of what I already know when it comes to adjsusting the settings when changing light. The light meter gave me a chance to use a ddifferent material when photographing and advising me on what light should be used when shooting in either light or dark surroundings. 
• Ambient light/ I used ambient light coming directly from the open window from the right.
• Reflector-silver and gold/ I used a reflector to give me more practice when using different materials and learning multiple ways of playing with light.

Here are contact sheets providing evidence of both my experimental skills and development throughout the photo shoot:

Contact sheets providing all of the photographs
taken throughout my shoot

Contact Sheet

Contact Sheet

My Wardrobe

Peak into my Wardrobe.

I chose to do a little part of research dedicated to myself as I have mentioned a lot throughout my research that I, myself believe that I am influenced by nineties fashion and incorporate it into my day to day fashion style. When it comes to fashion I believe that I am influenced most through high street fashion stores such as Topshop and urban outfitters. These two stores in particular have brought back many nineties trends and vintage clothing. During my research I recently did another survey directed to students like myself and ask "What influences them to dress they way that they do?" I had got many responses. From music, to celebrities, to models and many more features such as these others. I myself follow fashion trends through a social media app known as Instagram, an app that features day to day photographs. As well as both high fashion stores and social media, I am also influenced by in particular models of our generation such as...Hailey Baldwin, Kendal Jenner, Gigi Hadid and many more. When I say I am influenced by their style I mean their casual wear of clothing.  

As you can see in many of these photographs they are filled with aspects of the nineties and also the grunge style. Aspects such as doc martins, flannel shirts, denim, funky shirts and many more. All still in fashion today and worn by millions. As well as realising that all these trends are still trending, these specific trends are also feature in the successful work of Marc Jacobs: Grunge Collection and many more similar collections from the nineties. 

I have a variety of nineties clothing all dedicated to my everyday
lifestyle. Trends such as denim, flannel shirts, baggy clothing and
many more. 

 My Doc Martins, doc martins were also seen in
the Marc Jacobs: Grunge Collection.

My funky festival shirt similar to the shirts
Will Smith wore in The Fresh Prince of Bel Air.

Design sheets

Photographers don't design they create, I could have an idea in my head and without creating a design sheet I would plan my idea for instance, the outfit, the lighting ect. I would have the idea thought process in my head. However, when doing a photo shoot a lot of things change throughout and become different, you are constantly changing the lighting, changing the poses and maybe even the location its not a simple thing to design in my eyes. I feel that for a photographer doing a design sheet it is a pretty hard task, it isn't like planning a painting or a model. I believe that it is quite a difficult task because I have loads of ideas and inspiration however when putting it onto paper I was oblivious. I just knew in my head that I wanted my final outcome to be multiple magazine covers. So when coming to my design sheets I went about it one of two ways. One being to actually design and plan out everything using imagery, finding specific photographs of what I wanted for the shoot and during the shoot. The second way of creating a design sheet, was to actually create a magazine cover on how i wanted the layout to be from the own perspective using an image from a previous shoot. Also throughout my research a lot has changed reguarding my final outcome as I wrote in my project proposal that I would be focusing on four eras these being sixties, seventies, eighties and nineties and would create a magazine cover representing each era and the trends that have returned. However when starting my research I felt that it was a little two broad so I narrowed it down to just two eras to focus on. These being the eighties and nineties as I my knowledge and understanding was greater for the two. In addition, throughout my project I have continued to further narrow my choices and idea's down, therefore my idea now is to have four A2 magazine covers all portraying the nineties style grunge incorporating the trends that have also come back into fashion from the era. 

First Design Sheet. 

For my first design sheet, I used both secondary and primary photographs from both Pinterest and Tumblr of what specific clothing I wanted my model to wear whilst shooting, what make up I wanted the model to have and what grungy styled poses I could possibly use. As my final outcomes are going to be magazine covers influenced by nineties grunge, I used photographs of both models in the nineties and models today and collaged them in the top right corner of my sheet, to portray the type of make up I want for my shoot and to go further with this I added a artistic study drawn and designed by myself on how I believe the make up should look. My design sheet also allows you to visually see my location and how I plan to use in within my shoot. As you can see I have drawn a diagram within the image to give myself an insight on how I plan to set up my photo shoot. However, my photo shoot isn't a painting so it wont just stay in one place whilst photographing I intend to move around the location so this means the diagram shown on my design sheet will change. The diagram on my sheet is just simply an idea of how the photo shoot may be arranged on the day. The style I am going for within my shoot is "Grunge" this is because it is a style that has influenced me throughout my research. For instance photographer "Corinne Day" and Designer "Marc Jacobs" have both incorporated grunge within their work and I am truly inspire in the way that they have portrayed the style. As well as the grunge style, I have also been influenced by earlier research such as the TV programs I have research such as "Friends". The location from the shoot is inspired by the scenery of friends as I plan to involve the fountains within my photographs just like the introduction to the program. The choice of clothing has come from my earlier research also by incorporating nineties clothing that has "Returned". For instance the use of denim and doc martins.

Second Design Sheet.

For my second design sheet I have chose to go down a more narrow path within my design work. I have done this by creating a mock up of my interpretation of a magazine cover, giving me an insight on the look of my design and how it could look. I created my design in Photoshop using an image from my Corinne Day critical studies as I felt it would fit in with my design and idea process extremely well as the style I am aiming to achieve within both my photography work and outcome is nineties grunge. To give the magazine a more realistic look I added both text by using the "T" tool in Photoshop and a bar code giving it a look of sentimental value. When creating this mock up magazine I was influenced by my earlier research of Vogue magazines from both eighties and nineties, and when analysing the magazines realised that Vogue tend to place all their wording and subheadings to one side of the image leaving the title big and stretched along the top suggests to me, so that the image and the title is always the focal point. I also got inspiration from looking at nineties magazine on Pinterest and looking at the layouts and designs. The wording chosen is additional information such as "what it is?", "What it is representing?" and "Who its by?". 

Third Design Sheet.

For my third and final design I chose to go down a similar root as my second design sheet and to create another magazine mock up to represent my idea and interpretation of how I want my design and idea to look. I created my design in Photoshop this time using a different approach on a layout being influenced by magazines such as ID, Dazed, Another and Wonderland which you can see further into my research. All of these magazines contrast with the way a magazine covers are stereotyped to look like, and also have an edgy and grunge like appearance within their style of both photograph and layout. I believe this contributes with my idea as the grunge style was known for arguing with what is right and wrong and questioning the surrealism of certain things. Within my design in photoshop I also used a bold font for both my title and subtitle similar to the related magazines. However, this time I have used a photographer from my earlier research on nineties trends and the model that will be used throughout my photoshoots. My aim for my final pieces is to achieve four outcomes all portraying nineties trends but not only that but proving the aspect of grunge still lives on as well as questioning the stereotypical look of a magazine cover, I want all four of my magazine covers to be unique and to attract the eyes of the public at my exhibition. 

Development and samples of magazine mock ups

These are three developed designs of magazine mock ups that have all been inspired from my first design sheet which was evolved around the idea of recreating a "Friends" (Tv Show) scenery photograph besides incorporating both the nineties grunge and street style. The magazines as a whole were inspired by the fashion magazines Wonderland, Another, ID and Dazed. As I feel they are influential magazines and aren't stereotypical to today's society of magazines, they break the boundaries of what magazine covers are supposed to look like. 

However, not everything went as planned as my location was meant to be at the fountains in Barnsley town center but unfortunately, the fountains were not turned on, so this resulted in relocating to just outside of college surrounded by benches and a park atmosphere. I had also arranged a make up artist to collaborate with through college. Sadly, the make up artist did not show or make any contact with myself but this did not stop me from going ahead with the shoot. 

Throughout all of my shoots I intend to involve as much as my research within as possible. For instance, in incorporating Corinne Days edgy and unusual photography skills, having my model pose in unpleasant ways creating a surrealism vibe within my photographs. Adding aspects of clothing I have found to be Returning from the start of my research. Designing layouts linked to the magazines within my research and arguing whether it is a stereotypical magazine cover because that's not what I am wanting. I am wanting a magazine cover that is like no other and creates a grunge vibe. 

Problems I faced with my first photoshoot:

• Make up artist didn't get back in touch-went along without 
• My location to recreate the friends scenery wasn't available-relocated elsewhere 
• Part of the outfit was forgotten due to relying of others-went along with what I had 
• Lighting-over came this by using a light meter and playing around with the settings

My development sheet with annotation referring to each magazine cover
designed.